1978 gs550 carb settings
Suzuki GS Beforereal motorcycles had a pair of cylinders—arranged in a V or side-by-side, take your pick. Real motorcycles had push-rods, kick starting, drum brakes and spoke wheels, and until motorcycles were virtually tradition-bound to use these items. It took one four-cylinder machine the Honda to depart from the tradition and begin a new one.
In the 10 years sincemulti-cylinder roadsters have become the norm. With its transverse four-cylinder engine, four carburetors, dual-overhead camshafts, disc brakes and cast wheels, the GS is—to many of today's motorcyclists—the epitome of what a modern motorcycle should be.
To be sure, the has several completely conventional some would say obsolete features whose designs pre-date But, regardless of the few up-to-the-minute designs it lacks, overall the GS offers in one neat package the basic designs which are generally considered s state-of-the-art technology. For many years and for some pretty good economic reasons manufacturers have offered variants. It's been a sensible way, for instance, to produce two different displacement machines, each using the same chassis.
Just a few years ago the manufacturers grew more inventive and began concocting slightly different and slightly more expensive models with ostensibly functional variations, such as four-into-one pipes. Suzuki in particular has taken a practical and economical approach to the production of functional variants. Suzuki's use of stylish and inexpensive variations has been commercially successful: last year the E models outsold the standard versions in all four displacement categories where they were offered,and cc.
Suzuki first introduced the GSB in the spring ofabout six months after the debut of the GS, their first four-stroke motorcycle. The 's powerplant was a well-engineered, technically pedestrian unit. Traditional transverse fours are outnumbered by twins of all engine configurations, and that possibly foreshadows the building of a s tradition. Regardless of what the future holds, the GS-EN's engine is currently one of the most reliable units around. A one-piece cast cylinder head houses hemispherical combustion chambers with two valves per cylinder.
Adjustment of the valves is a simple matter of installing shims of different thicknesses in the tappet tops. The dual overhead camshafts ride on the head's plain bearing surfaces, and the shafts are driven by a roller chain.
With a nearly square bore and stroke of Suzuki engineers have chosen to use roller bearings at several points in the engine's bottom end where they might otherwise have used plain bearings. Though roller bearings offer no advantage in reliability over plain bearings and are actually a little noisier during operation, they do require less engine oil pressure. Six caged roller and ball bearings support the pressed-together crankshaft.
The number four cylinder's inside crank wheel doubles as the primary gear, and there's bearing support just inside of that gear. All four of the one-piece connecting rods ride on roller bearings at the big end, and the slightly domed pistons ride on the rods' small ends' plain bearing surfaces. Since the GS engine is a well-constructed representative of the four-cylinder genre, it is expected that the should be as smooth as glass.
It is up to a point, and that point is rpm. For a reason which is peculiar to this engine, the emits a very noticeable and irritating high-frequency resonance from just under rpm until redline. The vibration discourages the rider from high-rpm running for more than about 10 minutes at a time; in the lower rpm range the GS vibrates minimally and is very comfortable.
Fortunately, around-town cruising and short highway jaunts are most usually accomplished at speeds below the resonance level. But canyon berserkos note that in third gear the spins rpm at an indicated 55 miles per hour and that's definitely in the Shake, Rattle and Roll zone. At 55 miles per hour in fourth, fifth or sixth gear, the engine is comfortable, turningand rpm. However, the GS's powerplant, like most medium-displacement engines, needs high revs to develop any serious horsepower.
The Suzuki produces Welcome to BikeCliff's Website. Please note that on the files below, especially the larger files, you may need to right-click and "Save As Click here for more manuals. Oil and Filter Change. Stripped Oil Drain Plug Repair. Secondary Gear Oil Change. Final Drive Unit Oil Change. Bleeding the Brakes. Front Brake Pad Replacement. Rear Brake Pad Replacement. Install Progressive Fork Springs. Fork Seal Replacement. Fusebox Cleanup.
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Thread: Carb settings for straight pipes? Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player. Carb settings for straight pipes? Bike ran not very wellthen I tore the carbs down to rebuild them. Got the carbs back on the bike and it idles now but it dies as soon as I twist the throttle and I smell fuel while it's idling. Can anyone give me a baseline setting, or an idea of what to tweak? I don't want to rejet right now because as soon as I can ride it, I'm taking it to a friends place to fab up an exhaust.
Don't know if this would work, but I'm assuming the problem's related to the removal of back pressure Ever thought about loli-pop'n your straight pipe? It worked for me, but others might negate the benefit Originally Posted by Poopie. Originally Posted by Pendulum. Not a bad idea, but I've already got some mufflers. How much did it lower the noise level? This things pretty loud and I want to bring it down a bit.
Originally Posted by purerockfury. Sounds like this is an ongoing carb issue, and has nothing to do with cutting the muffs off. The reason I say that is that losing the mufflers would lean it out if anything, definitely not richen it.
You can try adjusting the floats, and if everything went back together clean, they shouldn't be sticking. What does your intake tract look like? Are you running a stock airbox?
Need carb jetting advice for my GS550
Are your filter s dirty? Did you change from an airbox to pods or stacks when you rebuilt the carbs? Originally Posted by 03ACE. I had a straight and unfiltered carbs and my bike ran "fine" with stock settings. Of course it would run better tuned, and I know I was slower than stock, but it still ran.
Any '70s GS Suzuki experts?
I think I'm running lean enough to blow the spark out or something. So I just thought about the fact that I have 4 GS carb kits And realized that those came with mains. Is this too big? If it's too big for the straight pipes, how 'bout if I was running straight pipes and a pod filter instead of the air box? What do you guys think? It will run like shit if you make the switch without taking those necessary steps. That's a direct solution to your issues, you get what you want, and it runs reliably I for one have shallow pockets and understand the constraint of budget, but ultimately there's no real shortcut here Last edited by purerockfury; at PM.
Honestly though I think I'm gonna try to run the single pod on the stock intake manifold.If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Thread: Help: 79 gs e carb trouble. Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player. Help: 79 gs e carb trouble Guys, I picked up my first build and now that I have done everything I'm having carb trouble. Here goes The bike will start great only on full choke.
Thn it will idle but as it runs it is spitting gas out where the filters go. Any throttle quickly kills the bike. I know this is a very vague description but its cut and dry. Thanks for the help in advance Cam. I had the same problem with my gs I pulled it apart many many times thinking it was a carb issue, not being clean. After about the 5th or 6th time doing that I got so frustrated I decided I was just going to put the bike back together. The Gs motor run on a vacuum. When I put the cover back on the air box it didn't bog down and die when I hit the throttle.
I am assuming you are not running the stock air flow system. You will want to make sure the bike has good air flow and is all sealed up. I know people have problems running the pods. My guess would be there is a leak in the air system, also includes the petcock. I would look at the vacuum part along with the diaphragms to make sure they do not have a hole.
Suzuki GS 550: History, Specs and Models
Also you may want to sync the carbs. You can check them by using a shop vac and sucking air threw and the slide should go down inside the carb. Well since it only runs on choke So you're starting adjustment is too rich, meaning it's getting too much fuel already It would be a good idea to cure the richness problem, decreasing float height s by 1 to 1. So bear that in mind if you've never learned to count turns.
Usually the standard turns when first making an adjustment to tune carbs is 2 turns out. Vacuum does play a role as well in lean or rich; when you go to pods and open pipes, besides jetting there are a few things you need to do. If you have a PRI setting on your pet that means it will freely flow gas through vacuum or not Then you go into standard carb tuning the steps for that will be: 1.
Cleaning the carb and removing soaking all the jets, find pod open pipe jet sizes other people are running with success and get some. If you need anymore help after going through this feel free to ask.Inall of the major Japanese motorcycle manufacturers were producing motorcycles powered by four-stroke four-cylinder engines.
All of them, that is, but Suzuki. The GS received instant critical and commercial success. The GS was a total sellout for Suzuki. The original Suzuki GS was in production for two years, and These early model GS motorcycles were classic examples of the standard, or "naked"-style motorcycle that came to be referred to as the Universal Japanese Motorcycle.
Those first GS models were powered by a cc, air-cooled, in-line four cylinder engine and a six-speed transmission.
The GS generated a reported 49 horsepower at 9, rpm and had a top speed of mph. With a wet weight of lbs. The GSE was a little sportier than the base model, adding alloy wheels and a rear disc brake. The GSL featured American cruiser-inspired styling, including shorter exhaust pipes, raised handlebars and a one-piece, stepped seat. The Katana had a distinctive body style. The extra contributed to the Katana having a lower top speed; mph compared to the GS models produced through were powered by a cc in-line four cylinder DOHC engine with two valves per cylinder.
The engine was air cooled. InSuzuki introduced an updated engine on the GS models. The new engine had four valves per cylinder and a modified combustion chamber.
This engine was used on the GS, and all of the GS models until Jerry Romick has worked in radio and television for more than 30 years, often contributing to radio publications and websites. Related The History of the P Mustang. About the Author. Photo Credits.Carb Balancing for Beginners or the things I have learned while mucking around with bikes!
Applies specifically to Suzuki GS motorcycles and, in principle, all motorcycles with multiple carburetors. Written and photographed by David Buttwith special thanks to Earl and the members of theGSresources. Warm the bike to operating temperature -- a short ride should accomplish this. You may want to have a fan available to help cool the bike while it is stationary.
Any '70s GS Suzuki experts?
Remove gas tank. Find a means to supply gas to the carburetors while the tank is removed. I set the tank on the rear carrier of my GS, or bungeed a small gas can to the rear of the seat on the GS You can also make an auxiliary fuel tank from a universal coolant reservior purchased at an auto parts store.
Some fuel line, a plastic hose barb, a bit of bent coat hanger wire to hang it from the handgrip, and viola! Remove the screws in the balance ports on the carbs. On the GS, they were allen bolts; on the GS phillips head screws. Install the hose barbs in their place. Note: for twins, replace "cylinder 3" with "right cylinder" and "cylinder 2" with "left cylinder" in the next few paragraphs.
Adjust cylinder 3 to best idle. You may have to remove the covers over the idle screws.
Drill each carefully with a small diameter bit, and extract by turning a screw a few turns into the hole you bored, and pop it out with a tug on the screw with a pair of pliers.
To ensure that the idle mixture was correct, I used a Colourtunea sparkplug with a view! You can see the colour of the combustion flame as the plug fires. When you see a bunsen blue flame, the idle is correctly adjusted. When I first tried this, I could not get a blue flame.
Once the jets were replaced all was well. The moral is that tuning by ear gets the best idle, but not necessarily the correct idle. Once the idle mixture is correct, set the idle speed to RPM or other speed as described in the shop manual using the adjustment knob located between the airbox and the carburetors.
Cylinder 3 should draw about 10 in Hg This is your baseline measure. If the motor is not drawing this vacuum, double check that the idle RPM and mixture are correct; a rich cylinder will not create the full vacuum.
Shut off the motor, and move the Colourtune to 2 cylinder.